Bear Bums – Bear Hunting

The skull makes a great trophy and can be mounted in several ways. If bleached the skull is very white and stands out whether on a plaque or alone. If cleaned with Chinese beetles the skull has a more natural tan, oiled look. I like both and I’ve had one brown bear skull done with some sort of white paint which looks good.

Getting the skull out of the hunting camp and back home can be some work but is not sweat producing or rocket science. If you’re close to the taxidermist then just take the skull into him after the hide is off and he’ll fix it up. Usually the ability to get the skull to home and or to the taxidermist is difficult, because of distance or time, requiring some in camp preparation. Here’s what I do. By the way, in my experience most outfitters do not help with the skull.

1. Once the skull is out of the hide use a sharp, small blade and remove all the meat you can.

-Do not be in hurry, or try short cuts. Bears have a lot of muscle on their noggins. You’ll find out the lower jaw will come loose then off as you whittle down the red stuff. In some places there is a membrane that makes removal of the meat easy but mostly the process is slow as the muscle has direct attachments to the bony bear skull in so many places.

Removing meat from the jaw of the bear skull.

2. The eyes will be removed

as part of this process and the skull will start to look like your trophy.

Cleaning the bear skull before the eyes were removed.

-Remember you cannot take too much muscle off the skull. I’ve tried boiling the skull and I admit the tissue came off more easily but I didn’t like dealing with the partially cooked skull, plus I like the beetle choice for final preparation.

2006 Alaskan Black Bear Hunt

3. My final step is removing the brain. There is no real clever way to explain this step.

-At the base of the skull is a hole a bit smaller than a walnut and the brain has to come out this hole. I use a stick the size of my finger but a foot long and scramble the cavities contents to the point they will come out. It’s wise during this step to not be too energetic or in too much of a hurry or you’ll get “part” on your buddies. Some water can sometimes help get the last of the brain cavity clean.

4. With the skull pretty cleaned off (this just took me 2-3 hours) I rub salt (use fine salt NOT ROCK SALT) in thoroughly making sure there are no pieces of tissue too big for the salt to cure. Small strands of tissue 1/8-1/4 inch thick are the max. The salt goes in the now empty brain cavity also.

With this done the skull will keep and become one of your most prized trophies, which you did a major portion in hunting, harvesting, preparing and preserving!

DO NOT LET THE LOCAL CANINES OR OTHER BEARS HALL THIS TROPHY OFF!

To pick up another hobby i.e. skull preparation the final stages of finishing the skull are not extremely difficult but area easily procrastinated.  I will include below some ideas that work concerning the final preparation with the following warnings.  In taking on the job of finishing your trophy skull you should then do it and get it done.  I’ve boiled skull too long and ruined them. Left those in ant piles till the local dogs stole them, and the list goes on.  Now days I’m more of a trophy hunter and I depend on the taxidermist to do the finishing touches on my trophy.

My advice above is mostly field care of the skull.  Once at home take on that new hobby of skull preparation or leave the partially prepared skull with the taxidermist as I do.  Either way enjoy!