Killed with a 100 year old Winchester 30-30 lever gun

These new technology’s make the choice of a lever gun as “the best” a very, very difficult question to answer. Now, I guess we can’t rule out grandpa’s old 45-70, or 25-35. Even the 30-30 becomes quite the little spit fire.

I’m not suggesting blowing off the dust and using the antique levers and your favorite big bore gun. We should all be careful when it comes to sticking a souped up bullet in an old gun. However, I now have added respect and use for the old levers and find myself not just using them more often in the field but checking them out at the local retail used or new gun spot.

Now back to the modern Browning lever. (all Browning levers are not modern) Browning’s BLR was introduced in 1971. This rifle was Browning’s offering to the lever action lover and over the years has gained notoriety and a following with avid hunters. The nice thing about the Browning BLR is the rotating bolt allows for positive lockup and the side ejection makes scope mounting easy. It also has datable box magazine the rounds are fed through. Remember the clip or box does away with any worry about the end of the bullet hitting the firing pin of the one behind it as in the case of the cylinder feed type lever gun.

Browning BLR

The Browning BLR is chambered for .22-250 up through .325 WSM and most popular cartridges in between, including the other WSMs–.270 WSM, 7mm WSM, and .300 WSM. If it’s a long-action cartridge you want, the BLR is also chambered in .270 Winchester, .30-06, 7mm Remington Magnum, and .300 Winchester Magnum.

The BLR can be used for almost any shooting, from plinking to hunting. Since the BLR can be chambered for so many different cartridges, it has very many uses. The .22-250 and .243 Win can be used for small game such as coyotes, the .308 is very suitable for deer or elk hunting. Large calibers will handle almost any large game in North America.

Little maintenance (parts and pieces are easy to get from Brownells, Midway USA, etc) is needed to keep the lever-action rifle in working order. A lever rifle is designed so that if it is dropped in the dirt or mud all you need to do is wash it up, dry it out, and it will remain operational. The typical level rifle is shorter and lighter than a bolt action rifle and the thin profile makes the lever-action rifle a natural fit in cramped areas.

For the big-game hunter, modern technology combined with old, proven designs means that lever guns can now equal the performance of the most modern rifles on the market.

The lever guns have been around now for over 130 years. They’re here to stay and that’s a very good thing. Great gun companies like Browning, Marlin and many others produce, fun to use, rifles in the lever style. They shoot good, look good (especially next to you on a horse, butt forward, of course) and make a great addition to your gun collection. I hope your gun collection also contains grandpa’s ancient lever as well!

notice my lever-action rifle in the scabbard - butt forward

With his 8mm he hammered this big old deer. We still have the B&C score sheet showing the buck’s score at 189 6/8. A great trophy in most anyone’s book.

The 8mm brought home a lot of game. Deer mostly, but also antelope, elk (from the Selway river) and at least one bear. Dad got the 8mm just post WWll and I received it after his death. Now my son has that rifle.

I called Mitchell Mauser earlier this year and purchased a German military, stored since WWll, rifle that looks almost new. It came with a thick coat of grease, but with a quick clean it shoots like I can’t believe. It’s already harvested a porcupine and a few prairie dogs. This gun’s action is the famous Mauser German action we should all covet. Here’s a Mauser/8mm brief history.

Mauser, based in Germany, is a manufacturer of a line of bolt-action rifles and pistols. Mauser has been in business since 1870 and the majority of their designs were built for the German armed forces. Mauser has also been exported and licensed to a number of countries since the late 19th century and early 20th century. Mauser’s are also a very popular civilian firearm as well as their military firearms.

The later years of the 19th century saw an arms race develop in the improvement of small arms. The French Army introduced the Lebel Model 1886 (in the year 1886), which used smokeless powder. The Lebel Model 1886 allowed for smaller diameter rounds, higher velocity, and accuracy up to 1,000 yards. Theses enhancements made most other military rifles obsolete. The disadvantage to the Lebel was a slow-to-load tube magazine.

In 1888, the German Army adopted the best features of the Lebel to the Gewehr 88, along with a modified Mauser action and a Mannlicher style box magazine. The 8mm Mauser came into existence in 1905 when the 7.92x57J was upgraded with a 154 grain spitzer bullet with a diameter of .323. This was also the primary round used by the German Army during both World Wars. This is the cartridge that is commonly known today as the “8mm Mauser” as it was later used in Mauser rifle models.

The 8mm Mauser is widely chambered in European sporting rifles, but American gunmakers have not adopted it as a standard sporting caliber. American cartridge companies only put out one loading, the 170-grain bullet at 2360 fps. If loaded by European companies such as Norma or RWS, it is in the same class as our 30-06. The “J” or “I” in the name denotes infantry ammunition. The German capital “I” was mistaken for a capital “J” by U.S. military interpreters after World War I and the “J” misnomer came into common use here and even in Europe thereafter!

The 8mm Mauser was not very popular in the United States prior to WWII. This has since changed with the large number of surplus 8mm military rifles sold since the end of the war and the uses have increased substantially. The 8mm Mauser is adequate for any North America big game hunting if the proper bullets and full loadings are used. There are a large variety of good .323-inch bullets available for the individual hand loader and this is a huge advantage for the American shooter in the use of the 8mm Mauser.

No matter which example is your idea of proper rifle storage, here are some suggestions for you to get your rifle out from under the bed or stuffed in the garage in a corner and into an improved environment.

I’m a gun safe fan but a good cabinet is the same.  Even a big box or small shed is better than the random corner of the room or under the bed stuff.  We all should consider our rifles prized possessions and treat them as if our grandkids will inherit them and use them.  That said a cabinet or safe seems a better investment or gift.

Likely my most imprinted memory of the night before opening day of the duck or deer or elk hunt, as a kid, was the smell of Hoppe’s Gun Solvent as we cleaned our gun in preparation for the hunt.

The post season cleanup of a gun doesn’t hold the excited memory but is pretty important in keeping a rifle functional for me and my grandkids.

The first rule in storing rifles is to keep them away from moisture/humidity and keep them stored at a stable temperature. Many gun cabinets/safes are equipped with the ability to add warming units. Some rifle owners use a simple low-energy “curly fry” fluorescent bulb and find that these will run continuously for about 10,000 hours with very low power consumption. You also want to make sure your cabinet or gun safe has a good seal or gasket around the edge. This seal is also important for fire protection.  The more humid your environment the more critical the prevention of moisture becomes.

When doing your rifle maintenance try to wear a pair of lightweight cotton gloves, especially if you have sweaty hands! This prevents the exposure of moisture, and hand oils which will reduce the chances of corrosion as your gun sits after use.  Don’t under estimate how much bad gook your hands can leave on a gun.

For long-term storage, all metal parts (inside and out) should get a coating of grease. Pay particular attention to the bore, chamber, and breech face. Brownell’s sells a product called Rust Inhibitive Grease that works perfectly for long-term storage.  This year I purchased a WWII German 8mm from Mitchell Mausers that had been in storage for over 60 years.  The thick grease it came with was messy but easy to get off and left me with a like new, very functional fun rifle.  For shorter storage I’ll often use light oil instead of grease.  Time spent on this step is time well spent!

Although you will know how the gun was treated prior to storage, a family member or hunting buddy might not. I suggest attaching a note to the rifle that clearly states, “Grease coating – - bore, chamber and bolt face. Remove grease prior to firing!” Accumulated moisture and dirt, or solidified grease and oil, can prevent the gun from operating properly.  Cleaning up a gun after storage will be another topic but knowing, or remembering how you stored your gun last year or 10 years ago is a great saver.

Many factors must be considered when deciding where and how to store guns. There is also an array of products available to prevent scratches, dents, and provide moisture protection.  These products are available through several online retailers or places such as Cabela’s or Brownell’s.

Be sure to always store firearms so they are not easily accessible to unwanted users and ONLY STORE UNLOADED RIFLES. Always store ammunition and the rifle in separate places to maximize safety for your self and family.

I have a spot in front of the TV in the family room where I can spread out a gun safely and work on it while I watch the hunting channel.  This has given me the time I need to keep up on my rifle maintenance chores.

The stuff we can use for cleaning and maintaining our gun make great small gifts.  Try hinting for this stuff as gifts and keep a head of what you need.

Here is a link to the Hoppes oil that I love to use (it’s around $14 through Amazon):

Or Brownells has smaller amounts starting at around $4 (a little bit of this goes a long way in my experience):

Gun Solvent

At Brownells you can get pretty much any type of gun cleaner you’ll need for proper rifle storage.

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in a Browning stainless model. What a gun! He explained to me it was my fault he had purchased this caliber.

Well, I like bear hunting and as I thought of a caliber that would leave no one doubting I felt comfortable with his purchase.

Shooting a big bear is a feat! You have to find the beast, get close enough and place that shot. Then with bears you have to find them after the shot.

Several years ago my daughter shot a big black bear at approx. 150yds with a .280 Remington

. This big boar received another 280 slug and 2 shots from my .300 Ultra mag before the bear was stopped as it closed the distance to us. More of a worry to me than the ones that attack or come closer are the ones that may get away wounded or lost.

Because of the characteristics of bear behavior like being, sneaky, shy, aggressive and quiet they also have a great ability to not be seen because of their color and surroundings. A wounded bear can hide in a dark hole or brush pile that, I’m afraid, keeps them from being found often. In northern Alberta I once fatally shot a big boar with a muzzle loader off a bait site. After the customary 30 minutes I actually stepped on him before I spotted him lying behind a log.

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Bears are built square with little vital areas. It’s much harder to hit the vitals on a black bear than it is on a deer or elk. On top of this the fat and long hair on a bear soaks up the blood making the ability to track them difficult.

In preparing for this September’s black bear hunt in Alaska I was pleased to find the Alaskan Fish and Game had many recommendations in harvesting black bears including shot placement and caliber recommendation. We’ll talk later about shot selection but here’s my opinion on caliber and getting the bear down.

1. Know your gun–sighted in, kick, noise, bullet weight, care, etc.

2. Select a heavy grained bullet. i.e., 200gr for a 30 06.

3. Use a scope–it gives you light and a fast sight picture.

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4. With a choice I like big calibers—.30cal to 0.416 calibers.

5. Look at a lot of bears–picture your shot.

6. Get close–150 yards is a long ways for a big old bear.

7. Perfect shot placement every time!

8. Wind and patience is everything.

I guess I could go on but as you can tell I love big guns and big bears. A 7 1/2 foot black bear is an indescribable trophy! Worth the effort and many trips.

I think we’re pretty well gunned but the sighting in part is always important. We got permission from a farmer, neighbor who has a perfect pond bank as a back stop and 500 yards or more of a straight shot leading up to it.

We made a straight up and down target holder and invented a solid bench for shooting.
With my acceptance of mortality I’ve accepted the use of a lead sled for sighting in. The lead sled was anchored on our bench and at the selected distances, 50 yds, 100 yds, and 300 yds, we lined up on the targets.

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These target are the best I’ve used. Sticky back and they highlight the spot you just shot so you can see well from quite a distance. The little sticky circles in the corners were also helpful because I could use them to cover up spots that I’d ruined with a shot without have to use an entire new target.

We remembered, this time, to take some binoculars and a range finder and this saved us a lot of walking and time. Our target selection was the self-adhesive Shoot-N-C® Targets. They show up well, highlight the shots and I love them. They don’t stick to a rough surface, like rough lumber, well so a few thumb tacks would still be helpful.

I think none of us are money making good shots but we now feel comfortable out to 300 yards. We can take care of business with the big black bear we plan to see on Prince of Wales Island in Alaska.
We plan on going out one more time before we take off to Ketchikan, Alaska then sighting in the rifles after the airplane flights once we get to the island hunting cabin.

The four of us are leaving Salt Lake City airport on September 5th and returning the 13th. I always think of leaving on a hunt like traveling to a foreign country and give myself at least two hours to get to the boarding gates. Now with extra security lines it may be longer.

Our original plan to fly to Petersburg, Alaska and float plane from there was changed for several reasons. The main reason being we couldn’t get ourselves to Petersburg or back to Salt Lake City in one day. The cost of an extra two days on top of the hunt is a big consideration for us. Not to mention the flight to Ketchikan, Alaska was $400-500 cheaper than Petersburg.

The adjustment to hunting the Prince of Wales Island of the coast of southern Alaska allowed us to fly to Ketchikan. This flight can be done in one day. Flights change all the time and next year it may be different, but that extra night in Seattle or elsewhere is costly in dollars and time.

The basic rules for carrying a firearm on a commercial flight are: (Remember each airline and or country can be a little different)

1. Rifle must be in a hard lockable case (I do not know about a revolver—but it will be way more strict)

2. The rifle must be unable to fire—bolt out or firing mechanism disabled.

3. At the airport check-in you must open the case and place a tag in it. So do not lock the case before it’s checked!

4. Carry the locks for the case with you so you can do the locking after check in.

5. Once checked in and the little form is on your case and your case is locked you will be escorted over to security with the rifle case to have it checked.

6. Security here can have you open the case if they want you to—I’ve never had to.

7. Ammunition must be packed separate from the rifle.

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8. Ammunition must be in its original packaging (this can be a problem for a self loader). I always keep an extra ammo box to use for extra bullets I have. Remember this is the rule on the way home also.

In brief summary your gun is sitting in the case with the bolt out, not locked until check in. (you must have the locks with you).

Here are a few ways to cheat a little:

1. Use the rifle case for two rifles. It’s a piece luggage they don’t usually weigh and with several hunters you can double up. Four of us are going on this fall bear hunt but we’re only taking two cases.

2. I always take the foam padding out of the case and use clothes to fill it. If you do this make sure the case is full enough so the rifle doesn’t bounce around or hit the hard case at any point.

3. Do not pack any thing that is questionable in the case with the gun. NO AMMUNITION, no knives, sharpeners, no flash lights, JUST CLOTHES.

4. NO JOKING OR KIDDING ABOUT HUNTING, GUNS OR RELATED TOPICS IN AN AIRPORT. You do not want to miss your flight.

Remember, most of the people helping you at the airport will know very little about gun, ammo, or hunting. If you have to try and explain why you want to be an exception to the rules they know you’re toast! Give plenty of time for travel with firearms. The US is the strictest so when I’ve flown to Canada or overseas it has not been worse.

Your regular luggage has the same rules as always. 50 lbs per bag and I recently heard most airlines were only allowing one bag, so hunting and traveling may be more expensive now. Use your carry-on as a luggage carrier but remember the carry-on gets way more security checks so nothing but clothes. I usually carry my camera, binoculars and spotting scope in my carry-on. They weigh a lot and I don’t want them smashed around any more than I can help.

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If your backpack is your carry on, it many times will not fit in a small airplane’s overhead bin. I’ve been checking it on right at the boarding of the plane. The airlines seem to like this and it doesn’t count as part of your luggage. Remember you will not have access to it during the flight.

P.S. Two years ago our luggage didn’t make it home with us. This included two green bear hides and the keys to my car. Keep your keys in your carry on. Do not have a knife hooked to your keys.

I do not enjoy traveling but I sure enjoy hunting all over the place and it’s worth the pain. GOOD LUCK!

Here is another traveling tip resource that I ran into on the web….should be useful for any hunter that needs to travel.

1. Rifle/scope, scope covers, sling

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– (I don’t like scope covers, but in this case it is inevitable—they keep water out and in. I can shoot a scope that’s wet but not one that’s foggy)

2. 40 rounds of ammunition – (sight your gun in after the airplane ride) It has to be in it’s original containers for commercial flying! Pack it separate from your gun.

3. Binoculars – (don’t forget these)

4. Spotting scope – (We’ll have two. One for each group) They are expensive and heavy so make the younger guys carry them.

5. Sleeping bag, air mattress – (Not a huge one) The great big bed mattresses are not good-too heavy and would take up the whole cabin. I think our cabin is 16ft X 20ft. Therm-a-Rest, Slumberjack or the new Exped Downmat 7 Sleeping Pad that I Iove and blogged about.

6. Small Pillow ultracet ingredients – The small down squish-able ones the size of a loaf of bread or just use your sweater, if you’re a good sleeper. Do not take the one off your bed!

7. Small backpack - There are a lot of backpacks out there. We’ll be carrying lunch, waders, and emergent stuff, so we’ll need one that’s not tiny. I like ones with real back support and I want it to be as big as the air line will let me carry on. Maybe I’m cheating but I found I can take a fairly big back pack as a carry on then check it just before I board because it’s to big for the little jets luggage overhead bins. My very favorite are the Osprey Packs. Also the Go Lite Infinity or Granite Gear Pack I’ve used and are good. Try and have at least

3600cc size pack.

8. Water canteen – I just use plastic water bottles and I usually carry 2 quart size bottle. On short trips one is plenty. I wouldn’t spend money on this.

9. Knife (sharpening stone) – Know your knife. Remember this is a big part of the hunt. Check out my post on skinning a bear. I LOVE KNIVES!

10. Camera and Film – I have trouble with this one. Usually I do best with the smallest camera I can get and I keep it in jacket pocket or a pack side pocket stored in a heavy duty baggy. Or, I bring someone that knows cameras and likes to hunt with me.

11. Light nylon rope (for backpack) – For an emergent tarp or to aid in skinning and a thousand other uses. Twine string from hay bales would work but it’s a bit messy.

12. Flashlight, GPS, Batteries (small) – These can save your life. I carry one or those little head lamps, like a Petzl and a Compact Flashlight of some sort. Both with extra batteries. The popular Sure-fire lithium lights are great but they run out of battery juice fast and are heavier. If it’s dark it doesn’t take much of a light to let you see. I’ve run out of battery juice before while bear hunting….no bueno.

13. Sunglasses, regular glasses - I wouldn’t take them if you not dependent on them. The coast of Alaska is not famous for being sunny.

14. Reading book - Maybe even take a journal if you think you will have time to write down the cool bear hunting experiences you’ll have.

15. Emergency kit (simple) – Small match container or cigarette lighter. Think of what you use at home. Aspirin, Tylenol, Band-Aids, pins etc.

CLOTHING

1. Good rain gear (top/bottoms) rubber if possible-make sure it will cover your head when needed. Helly Hansen light rubber. I’ve blogged a little about this before.

2. Pants (light wool) I’m wool fan. Levis have helped me freeze to death too many times. The army surplus wool is fine. You’ll need to line them with silk or thin underwear or they itch. There are new fancy materials. I just don’t know about them.

3. Chest waders and boots for them. All the fishing stores have them. We did better with insulation over our skin and not in the boots. Cabelas, REI, Bass sports shops etc.

4. Hiking boots. I use leather gortex boots that are broken in. On this bear hunt if we wear them they will get wet and we’ll dry them out. Make sure they’re broken in

5 Vest, coat – Light and heavy.

6. Socks – Light and heavy. I usually take about one pair of socks for two days and I always come back with clean socks. I like silk on my feet and a good hiking sock over the silk. Wool is good but remember it itches so it has to be lined.

7. Shirts, t-shirts, long sleeved shirts, sweater – Our September bear hunt will not be hot so take two t-shirts and one long sleeved light shirt and one long sleeved heavy shirt.

8. Long underwear – silk or polypropylene, best take two pair. Under Armour is nice and there are generics and many other brands. Patagonia and Smart Wool make good light underwear.

9. Camp shoes – moccasins are okay, but in a really wet place slip on rubber boot are good. I use heavy socks for indoors.

10. Hat, gloves – One baseball cap, one winter type socking cap. At least three pair of wool gloves. Remember to dry stuff out every night.

11. Personal items - Medicine, aspirin, band aids, shampoo, sunscreen, soap ( don’t over lap with you 1st aid kit).

12. Chap Stick, moleskin antacid, towel I’ve noticed a lot of hunters are addicted to ChapStick. Vaseline works also. Keep everything small.

GENERAL

1. Duffel bags - Luggage-not suitcases soft smash able stuff always works well. Don’t get to giant with the duffle bag, the air line only gives you 50 lbs per bag.

2. Rifle scabbards – (cloth carriers) Get the ones that hug your gun. Don’t cover your gun with these when you fly on commercial airlines as they have to check your gun.

3. Rifle case for airplane – (2 can share one case) It has to be hard and lockable. These get abused terribly. About 4-5 trips and mine are hammered. I usually take the foam out and use the space for cloths. DO NOT PACK YOUR AMMO IN THE GUN CASE.

4. Compact fishing gear – I’m no fisherman so I’m learning what to take.

5. Tags and license – (get it now) this is easy in Alaska www.wildlife.alaska.gov.

6. Cash – If you carry plastic and have enough for everything you can think of an extra 2-3 hundred is plenty. (The cost of this hunt is about 1/3 to ¼ of what a guided hunt would be).

GROUP STUFF

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1. Food - Plan each meal, snack and extra snacks. No fried chicken or steaks for fly in stuff. One steak can make stroganoff for every one, for example. This keeps things light.

2. Boat motor – Our cabin is on a 1-2 mile long lake and comes with a little boat. A 30-50 lb motor can be rented and with 5 gallons of gas we plan on putting all over the lake, fishing and getting us to the bears!!

3. Tarps – One for each person for an emergency and three big 20 foot tarps to expand our roof next to the cabin. We also need a tarp or two to skin the bears on. Don’t forget this one!

4. Salt – 100lbs for skinning and fixing the bear hide. The taxidermist in Ketchikan. He will sell us two 50 lb bags.

5. Lansky Sharpener – (I’ll bring it) big nice sharpener for camp. You’ll need a little stone in your pack. If you don’t have one get it now….I don’t know how we survived before Lansky.

6. Personal sharpening stone – Not a wet stone (see the blog on skinning a bear).

7. Game bags – To keep flies off the meat. I think it will be cold enough to protect it but the game bags are cheap and light. We’ll take about eight.

8. Gas or way to light stove. Two years ago our stove was coal oil which worked well. The salmon lake cabin has a wood stove and the forest service I suppose will supply the wood.

9. Hatchet - In case the forest service doesn’t supply the wood.

10. Rope to tie down tarps 1/8-1/4 inch rope. Probably 100-200 feet of it. This is a must to make a good camp.

11. Matches and cigarette lighters we’ll buy them in Ketchikan. Probably two each and matches that light without the box.

We are renting a camping box which has lantern, griddle, cooking stove, pots and pans, plates, cooking utensils, a Dutch oven and a cooler. This will save us buying stuff we can’t bring home.

This is an ongoing list and will probably never be complete. Please feel free to add items we’ve missed in the comments. We will have to be judicious in our packing because we are restricted by weight.

This may be one of the most valuable bear hunting tips that I provide.

Bear hunting can bring out the worst in a gun. The thicker the bear population, likely, the denser the forest and the more damp the environment. On a coastal Alaska bear hunt my son Jed was using my .300 Win. Mag with a blued barrel and wood stock. It is a nice Ruger bolt action rifle. No kidding, we had to clean off rust daily to keep up and when I got home I took it completely apart and found bad stuff that required a lot of work.

Here are some suggestions for keeping your gun in good shape. Remember, I’m no museum guy just a hunter with experience. As a general rule metal likes oil and wood hates it. Skin carries oil with enzymes in them that can eat metal. Water is the main killer.

This solvent should last you a while

To prepare for a hunt I use Hoppe’s Gun Solvent

to clean the entire rifle. This takes off the excess oil, acids, and most stains. I try and separate the wood stock from the metal pieces as much as possible. The metal I then treat with light high quality oil, like Remington Oil. At this point I do not want excess oil. The stock is treated with a wood oil, wax or preservative to seal it little.

If the stock is the new synthetic stuff a just clean it off with a little water and let it dry. The barrel I treat the same way but with more aggression. Hoppe’s until clean then very light oil.

During the hunt I repeat these same procedures if my gun gets wet (which it usually does) or banged around a lot.

After the bear hunt I again repeat the same process only I leave more oil on the gun.

Many recommend storing a gun upside down to keep all the metal oil out of the wood. I have to say I agree that the oil will soften the wood over time but personally I think that’s overkill.

As you clean your gun pay special attention to the tricky parts like scope screws, metal hiding in or under the wood. The firing pin and action parts.

Our group of four bear hunters going to Prince of Wales Island this September will take just one cleaning kit and use it to keep up all the guns.

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My strong belief is that a gun will stay reliable, workable, and good looking, with a long life if you are in love with the it. Enjoy you gun ownership freedoms and care for these instruments.

There are many good suppliers with good websites to find the maintenance stuff for your rifle. Midway USA is my favorite.

What about big coastal black bears like the ones we’ll be seeing in September on Prince of Wales Island, Alaska. Which gun is best? Should you get a special gun for the job or just take the old ’06?

I have my preferences and some experience. I don’t think bears are extremely hard to kill but they can be a nightmare to nail to the ground. Since bears can get lost in the thick undergrowth fast or turn hostil quickly I like big heavy bullets. Fast is pretty good but a 7mm or .280 remington, to me, is an elk gun. Elk never chew on you. I prefer the 30 caliber magnums or bigger.

Near Yakatat Alaska one fall my guide and I put eight .338 bullets in a big brown bear finally stopping him at 5-10 paces. Once that adrenaline gets going in a big bear, look out and keep shooting.

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Some of the new short calibers are intriguing but I guess I’m still a .30 caliber magnum guy, for the big bears.

Micah, my daughter, shot a good black bear a few years ago and hit him fatal. However it was 4 shots later with him getting pretty close, that stopped him for good. She was using a .280 remington. That’s a great gun, just not beefy. zovirax ointment no prescription needed

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I’m glad there are lots of choices out there because I like being a gun owner. Hopefully this fall I can try out my .338 Winchester Magnum on a huge black bear. When I do I hope the guy next to me has an equally lethal weapon.